expensive, had 70m done at work for about $100k

https://www.tilling.com.au/wp-content/u ... 8.web_.pdf
this has a good section on dynamic performance.
I joists are light, LVLs will have better dynamic performance as they are heavier. 300mm F17 hardwood…

I think if you offer to pay for it to be moved it wouldn’t be unreasonable. They are not obliged to move it, looks pretty safe to me too.

definitely I joists, dead straight and stable.
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs…

use a nutsert, an internally threaded rivet and screw the stainless swagged wire in

where is the boundary? the garage gutters make me think the garage is not on the boundary, and the fence is

The posts are strong enough but need to be painted to stop rust, the weld especially and the thin gal is almost gone.
The rail is warped because it was not…

no problems, they won’t bow as they are made of reinforced concrete, fill the gap with some dirt if needed

yes you can, you needs spacing between pipes but electrical will be below 500mm and you can lay the ag line just under the turf. Make sure there is marker…

yeah I think it’s the condensation that can drip onto the plasterboard as well as the temperature changes that cause the cracking

alfresco ceilings are notorious for this, best avoided but apparently can work with joists at 300mm, back blocking, paper tape and wet area board. The roof also needs to be…

Self levelling compound can be feathered for the transition. High spots can be ground flat with a cup grinder on an angle grinder.
You need a good straight edge, a trowel…

same thing

You can just tile straight onto the concrete. A wood float finish is normally used. No screed unless you need to introduce a fall for drainage

looks like a bit of a problem, needs to be dug out, and waterproofed. Was is designed as a retaining wall? It should have been since it was built 400mm…

up to 2.5m high is zone 1, IPX4 according to wiring rules, above that is unzoned so no specific requirements. Your sparky should know all this stuff.

not sure what re-textualise means, you might need to take the render off. A surface prep company might help, usually do concrete grinding as well.
If the adhesive is not cement…

There is a standard for off street parking. Any multi residential development would need to comply. Not sure if a single dwelling needs to comply or not. The concretor has…

4.8m door is ok for a nice straight driveway, if you need to swing in at all an extra 300mm will really help

Is it for road noise? The cavity is continuous and can’t just be filled. Insulation sits in the timber wall frame hence the gyprock all needs to come off.
Easiest is…

yeah I’d be annoyed if I was your neighbour, the wall needs to start below existing ground level on the low side. Pretty brain dead not to use 2x200 sleepers…

Agree he should have asked first but my view is that when you build on the boundary the neighbour should be able to what they want with that wall, provided…

it’s an arco mini stop from reece
washing machine 3/4 inch outlet and 1/2 inch
both turned on by the tap at the same time

you could offer to pay 100% of the fence or just build the retaining wall inside on your side of the fence with a 1800mm high screen

to be legal it all needs to come out, get a builder to have a look

reduce the window size or shade them externally. Deciduous trees are also good

definitely not allowed under timber framing standards, might work but definitely an illegal extension, on the plus side the original trusses look intact

The first detail is not tiled, modwood is a wood substitute board. Both details are ok, none is cheaper than the other

is that a welded bracing panel? It will probably be ok once enclosed. Can you go there and throw some primer on it for piece of mind?

maybe meet with council, do they have a duty planner? they could answer the question quickly and accurately